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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:09 am 
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Kramer Maniac
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I had a small pile of grimy OFRs accumulated, decided to clean them up and take the best parts to make 4 good ones, as I need 2 and have been asked to sell 2 more. As I'm getting ready to reassemble and configure as needed with mostly old-style arms. Five questions have arisen, hoping some of you with knowledge and expertise can help me out. Much appreciated! Differences of opinions welcomed also, as always.

1. See photo. I don't have a shop press, so what's the best way to get this bastard out of there? (I've only messed with old-style arms before). Just turn it upside down and beat on it, or what?
Image

2. On the back of the plates, some have a grid pattern visible in microdot indentations, while others do not. What is the story with this? Does it designate a different manufacturer or technique?
Image

3. All of these bases are 3.5mm thick, except one of them is only 2.5mm thick (the one on the left). What is the story with the thin one? Is this a legit Floyd Rose or is there a problem?
Image

4. I know there were comments about this recently on another thread few are to link me to it, but at the fulcrum points, all of these appear to have at least a tiny bit of rust or crust, if not metal wear. I know some folks commented before that it is hardened steel, so don't worry about it, but what is the best way at least to clean it up to optimize performance and make it look better for the 2 that I'm going to sell?
Image

5. See Pic. On the saddles, most of them have the little (brass?) foil pieces sealing the bottom of the holes where the saddle blocks drop in, but a bunch have them missing. Does this just mean that they fell out or got punched out at some point? Does it matter? If so, why?
Image

Thanks so much for all input!!

_________________
SO many projects, so little time!

Classic II red Tele
Ferrington red Tele
81 Pioneer Bass
various Foci
various pieces parts...
Bastards:
Ed Sheeran Sig Martin LX1E, 1st ed.
Billie Joe Armstrong Gibson LP Jr, 1st year


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:59 am 
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Kramer Maniac
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I'll try to help.

Answer to questions.
#1.) I have always just tapped them out with a small fret hammer. Or . Any small hammer. I prefer a plastic hammer for this. It doesn't take much to get them out.
#2.) I believe (could be wrong) that those are original stamping, tool and die marks. The more you use a die, the more those marks disappear. The non-marked Floyd's could have been made on a different die. Or if the markings are lighter they are newer Floyd's.
In my experience the markings are more prominent the older the Floyd Rose is.
#3.) Vintage Kramer states that thinner base plates were not that common. I have seen a lot of different plate thickness on these vintage Floyd's. I don't know why, but it seems common to me.
#4.) Good Question. I will use alcohol, or sometimes I use regular hand soap and a tooth brush to clean the parts. I dry them. Spray them out with compressed air. Then I use carnauba wax. Seriously. I get a rag and coat the hell out of everything with Meguire's Carnauba wax. Then after a few moments I start wiping them off with a clean rag. A bottle of compressed air helps get the stuff out of the nooks and crannies. The wax not only removes light rust, dirt, and grime. It creates a barrier that keeps the metal from rusting, and keeps all the dust, dirt, and grime from sticking to it in the future.
When assembled I apply a little graphite lube on the posts.
For heavy rust. I will let parts soak overnight in Evapo-Rust.
#5.) I think you can buy those parts from the Floyd Rose website. Those fall out. I never had a problem with a Floyd if those were not in the saddles. Not really a problem in my opinion. Those little brass plates are probably used to keep the blocks from falling out before assembly.
Just my opinions. Hope it helps.

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Joe in Detroit
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:10 am 
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Kramer Maniac
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I'd take a brass or copper bristled brush to those knife edges to clean 'em up. Whenever I get a used Floyd, I disassemble it and soak it a few days in a mixture of WD-40 and PB Blaster. After a day or two, I set them on a rag overnight, then wipe them down with a clean rag. They're always like new, and function like butter. I add a few drops of 3 in 1 oil to the fine tuner screw threads.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 11:16 am 
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Kramer Kommander
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Location: Germany
1) WD40 to soften the rust and then hammer it out. You have the cap from the bottom side still on, can't hammer it out like that, that cap must go first.

2) the waffle-grid pattern are the oldest Floyds and the best ones too - milled out of a piece of machine steel, fully hardened. Later ones "only" get the knife edge area hardened and are bent, not milled.

3) thin baseplate was used on old Les Paul-type Floyds, probably someone used it as a spare somewhere.

4) don't use any abrasives or files, hardened steel does not like that. Just clean it with WD40 or similar and you're done. You can oil it a bit or use lip balm for lubrication.

5) they fall out quite often. Usually you don't need them, but be a bit careful when tightening the lock blocks, if they fall through too far while fully open, you can miss the centering hole and crush them.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:46 pm 
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Kramer Maniac
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Joined: Fri Mar 31, 2017 11:31 pm
Posts: 519
Gracias, Fellas! That is very helpful in guiding me forward. Any additional thoughts appreciated.

I've got that plate/coupling connection soaking in WD40, will tap it with a hammer later on. The cap indeed already had been removed, it just might not look that way in the pic due to perspective as the close-up made for a sort of fish-eye lens effect.

_________________
SO many projects, so little time!

Classic II red Tele
Ferrington red Tele
81 Pioneer Bass
various Foci
various pieces parts...
Bastards:
Ed Sheeran Sig Martin LX1E, 1st ed.
Billie Joe Armstrong Gibson LP Jr, 1st year


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